What does fagoting mean?
Fagoting is a decorative needlework technique in which two pieces of fabric, or groups of threads, are joined by crisscrossed stitches that leave an open, ladder-like band between them, producing a light, lacy effect. Practised in hand sewing, smocking-adjacent heirloom sewing, and bobbin or needle lace, it appears most often on fine garments and linens — christening gowns, blouses, tablecloths — where visible craftsmanship is part of the design. The term can refer both to the technique itself and to a strip of work made by it. The word derives from "fagot," meaning a bundle of sticks, borrowed from French and ultimately from Latin fascis, because the gathered, bound appearance of the stitches recalled tied bundles. A close relative of hemstitching and drawn-thread work, fagoting carries connotations of delicacy, tradition, and skilled handiwork. It is a specialist term, familiar mainly to sewists, textile historians, and those interested in couture detailing.
nounA decorative needlework or lace-making technique in which fabric strips or threads are joined by crisscrossed stitches, leaving an open, latticed band between the pieces; a length of work produced in this way.
- The decorative needlework or lacemaking technique of joining fabrics or threads with crisscrossed stitches to form an openwork band.
- A piece of trim or ornamentation produced by this technique.
"The heirloom tablecloth featured delicate fagoting along every seam."
"She finished the linen blouse with fine fagoting at the yoke."
"Victorian christening gowns often displayed rows of hand-worked fagoting."
Rarely pluralized; the uncountable singular is standard when referring to the technique, though "fagotings" can denote multiple pieces of the work.
"Her sampler book displayed fagotings worked in silk, cotton, and linen thread."
The word for this dainty lace stitch traces back to the same root as "faggot" — a bundle of sticks — because the crisscrossed threads were thought to resemble tied bundles.
Reviewed by Deb Chak, Editor. AI-assisted content curated by RJS Tech Solutions LLP.
Etymology of fagoting
Fagoting comes from "fagot" (also spelled faggot), meaning a bundle of sticks, which English borrowed from French fagot, likely from Italian fagotto, from Latin fascis, meaning bundle. The stitching technique was so named because the crisscrossed threads over the open seam were seen as resembling small tied bundles. The same Latin root fascis gives English words such as fascism (from the fasces, the Roman symbol of bundled rods), fascicle, and fascia, and it also survives in the name of the bassoon, Italian fagotto.
Related word forms
How fagoting is actually used
A technical term used mainly in sewing, embroidery, lacemaking, and fashion contexts. Also spelled "faggoting," though that spelling is increasingly avoided because of its association with the offensive slur.
Easily confused with fagoting
"Faggot" is primarily a bundle of sticks or a highly offensive slur, whereas "fagoting" refers specifically to the decorative openwork stitching technique; in British English "faggots" are also a type of meatball dish.
Smocking gathers and embroiders fabric into pleats, while fagoting joins two pieces with an open, latticed band.