What does gabardine mean?
Gabardine is a sturdy, closely woven twill fabric, most commonly made from worsted wool but also produced in cotton and blends, prized for its smooth surface, durability, and resistance to wind and rain. It has long been a mainstay of tailored clothing — suits, trousers, uniforms, and above all the classic trench coat, whose modern form owes much to Thomas Burberry's water-resistant wool gabardine of the late nineteenth century. The word carries connotations of quality craftsmanship and traditional menswear, appearing most often in fashion, retail, and tailoring contexts. Historically, 'gabardine' (often spelled 'gaberdine') also referred to a loose outdoor cloak worn by travelers and pilgrims, a sense preserved today mainly in literature and costume history. For anyone interested in fabrics or fashion, gabardine remains one of the most recognizable and respected names in woven cloth.
A firm, hard-wearing twill fabric, usually of wool or cotton, woven with a distinctive diagonal rib and used for coats, suits, and trousers.
"Her vintage gabardine jacket had kept its shape after decades of wear."
The fabric sense dominates all modern usage.
(Historical) A long, loose cloak or overgarment, formerly worn outdoors, especially by travelers and pilgrims.
"The pilgrim drew his gabardine tight against the cold."
This sense appears mainly in historical and literary texts; 'gaberdine' is the more common spelling here.
The plural applies when referring to garments made of gabardine (coats, trousers) or, less commonly, to bolts or quantities of the fabric itself.
"The shop stocked gabardines in navy, charcoal, and khaki."
In 1879, Thomas Burberry pioneered a water-resistant wool gabardine so innovative it replaced the heavy rubberized coats of its day — and made the trench coat iconic.
Reviewed by Deb Chak, Editor. AI-assisted content curated by RJS Tech Solutions LLP.
Etymology of gabardine
The word entered English in the early seventeenth century from Old French 'gabardine', likely ultimately derived via Spanish 'gabardina' from 'gabán', a term for a coarse outer coat whose deeper Germanic origins remain uncertain. It originally denoted the loose cloak itself, and only later came to name the distinctive twill cloth associated with it. The variant spelling 'gaberdine' preserves the older garment sense in English.
How gabardine is actually used
Today the word is used almost exclusively of the fabric, chiefly in fashion and tailoring contexts, where it connotes durability, smart tailoring, and classic menswear. The older 'cloak' sense survives mainly in historical and literary usage.
Easily confused with gabardine
Gaberdine is an alternative spelling that historically denoted the loose outer garment, while gabardine is the spelling now standard for the twill fabric.